An American At Home In Sevastopol

CONTRASTS:

Life in Sevastopol is an endless series of contrasts that challenge my expectations and my ideas of what is normal. What is normal here, isn’t what’s normal in San Diego.

How People Live

Most all people live in what they call “houses.” These are not what we think of houses in the US. They are buildings made up of flats (or apartments). Some of the buildings are three stories, some five, some nine. When you know how many stories a building is, you know how old it is. Three is oldest, built shortly after WWII. Five story buildings were built in the 1950’s and 1960’s. And, nine story buildings were built in the 1960’s and 1970’s. There are also new buildings being built that are taller. These houses are a sight to see. Their exteriors are confusing to Americans, because they look shabby by our standards, flaking paint, an infinite variety of clothes lines, wires tacked haphazardly to the walls, and a hodgepodge of windows and balconies that have been modernized or not. The entries, hallways, stairways and elevators appear little cared for. The doors to the individual flats are, for the most part, solid steel, vault-like, opened with oversize clanking keys that look more at home on a jailer’s key ring. But, here comes the biggest surprise. Once inside the flats of these drab, neglected, blocks of buildings, you can often find light, airy, plant-filled homes that are beautifully cared for, comfortable, and replete with 21st century technology and décor. It’s like stepping from one world into another. But, that’s not the case. To the people in Ukraine, it’s all part of their world.

How People Shop

Rarely does a person here enter their home without a large plastic shopping bag in his or her hand. Shopping for food is something people here do every single day. It’s not as you may think that food isn’t easy to find and buy. It’s just that their shopping habits are different from those in the US. Fresh and natural are the most important qualities of food to Ukranian people. So, they buy today’s food today. Herein lies another great contrast. People here buy their food from a variety of places. Throughout the city there are makeshift stands selling fresh fruits, vegetables, eggs, etc. They’re quite organized and each neighborhood has several of these stands to choose from. Most people have their favorite stand that they visit daily. There are also what are called “markets” which are areas made up of many small shops selling everything from food to clothes to mobile phones to flowers to hardware… anything you would want or need. Many people visit these markets every day to buy fresh cheese, meat, or whatever else they need for the day’s meals. There are even many babushkas (old ladies) who sit along the sidewalks and sell things like fruit, nuts, mushrooms, or whatever else they choose. And, then there’s what is called the supermarket. These are more familiar to what people in the US are used to, shopping carts, aisles, cash registers, and even discount cards. These supermarkets vary a great deal. There are smaller supermarkets, tucked into neighborhoods where you can buy everything from laundry soap, to cereal, to any food you’d like. There are larger versions of these supermarkets scattered about the city. And, there are the large supermarkets which look almost exactly like the big supermarkets seen everywhere in the US. There’s a huge variety of food available. In fact, one such store, near my house, reminds me of Whole Foods on steroids. The variety is even greater than I’ve seen in the US. Some Ukrainian people choose to only shop at the markets with many small individual shops. Some choose to only shop at the most modern large supermarkets. Most people seem to do both. There are also large department stores that sell clothing, appliances, electronics, furniture, and housewares. The selections are many.

How People Move About Sevastopol

Walking is one of the favorite pastimes here, and the most common form of transportation. I don’t know the proportion of people who own cars, but I’m pretty sure it’s much less than those who don’t. Cars cost the same as they do in the US and Europe, but incomes are much lower. A personal car is a luxury. Most people use public transportation. This comes in three forms, the trolley, busses, and minibuses. The trolleys are electric, huge, ancient, and very uncomfortable, crowded, cold in the winter, hot in the summer, and slow. The busses are better, faster, but still crowded at peak hours. The best transportation is the minibuses. They’re comfortable and fast. All of these follow set routes and people rarely have to wait more than 5 minutes for the next to come along. As for traffic, there are far more cars and busses than the local streets were designed for, so it can be congested at times. But, all in all Sevastopol is an easy city to get around in. It’s possible to reach almost anywhere in the city in less than 30 minutes, and the cost is around $.50.

How People Behave

The first impression of people here is that they are not openly friendly. They’re not unfriendly, but the American habit of saying “hello” to strangers just isn’t done here. Where we may be used to saying “good morning” or “have a nice day” to people we meet on the elevator or in a shop, people here don’t. In fact, as I’ve talked to friends here about this, they think we’re insincere when we do this. However, I must say that people are polite and respectful to each other. Even drivers are courteous. But, don’t expect to make eye contact with strangers or to smile or be smiled at by them. Once you get to know someone, it’s completely different. Hugs, kisses on the cheek are common among friends. When you’ve made a friend here, you’ve made a true friend who is always there to help you, to welcome you to their home, to spend time with you just walking around the city.

And Then There’re the Women

Sevastopol is known throughout Eastern Europe for it’s beautiful women, and I can see why. I’d say that one out of every 10 women you see on the streets looks like she should have her modeling portfolio under her arm and is on the way to an “Elle” fashion shoot. They dress in the most alluring styles. Very snug fitting clothes, tailored to accent every curve, and of the latest European design. Skirts are short and tight. Blouses and sweaters fit perfectly. Shoes are the highest heeled possible, and the clack, clack, clacking of high heels up and down the sidewalks is a sound that still makes me turn my head. Hair styles are feminine, sometimes exotic, with obvious care given to their look. And, one of the most amazing things about these usually very slender, striking women is that they may look so very feminine, but they are hearty. They can run after a bus in their high heels, talking on their mobile phones with a heavy plastic bag in hand, and do so without a whimper of complaint. But, don’t be deceived. Their revealing dress is no reflection on their personalities. I’ve been often surprised by an incredibly sexy woman revealing to me that she truly is shy, innocent, and in all ways a very traditional girl. In fact, it is more common to see these girls walking arm-in-arm or holding hands with another girlfriend, than doing so with a man. And, no matter how modern they appear, for the most part, these girls want most of all to be wives and mothers. They expect to cook every day. They expect to take care of their husbands and children. They expect to take care of the rest of their family members. They expect to work.

About Sevastopol

Our beautiful city surrounds several very deep bays and harbors. There are hills everywhere. A most prominent feature of the city is the fact that 60 percent of the 1000 square kilometers that incorporate Sevastopol is taken up by forests and parks. Most of these parks are sights of battles and fortifications from the three great wars that have been fought in this city of monuments. There’s hardly a street or neighborhood that doesn’t have some monument to a battle, a hero, or some historic episode from Sevastopol’s past. And, the citizens of the city truly enjoy these parks. People are always walking together, enjoying the weather, the fresh air, and each other’s company. Even for teenagers I’ve come to know, the favorite pastime is walking with friends.

Near Sevastopol

The Southern Coast of Crimea is just minutes away from Sevastopol. It is easily reached by public transportation, and it’s like finding another world in this other world. The Southern Coast hosts rugged rocky mountains that meet the blue-green Black Sea. Along the coast you can find everything from historic castles and churches to nature preserves to a rock climbers paradise to secluded beaches of pebbles and rocks to the 24/7 nightlife of the resort town of Yalta. There are European style health spas, a Botanical Gardens near Yalta, in the village of Nikita, that rivals any botanical gardens I’ve seen in the world. Many people compare the Southern Coast of Crimea with the Riviera, and they’re absolutely right, but it’s a Riviera that’s yet to be discovered by the rest of the world.

Traditions

One of my fellow teachers was recently married, and I was honored when she invited me to attend her special day. I had a first hand look at a traditional Sevastopol wedding. It was great fun. In Sevastopol there is a Wedding Registry Office. On only two or three days of the week do they hold weddings there. Each wedding is scheduled for a particular time, and a few minutes before the bride and groom and their guests all arrive at the Office. As the last wedding ends, the parties from each change places. The previous wedding party leaves and the next party comes in. A very traditional ceremony is performed with everyone cheering. After the ceremony, we all got into cars and rented minibuses that are decorated with ribbons and flowers. The caravan leaves the Office and makes it’s way around the city. Our first destination was the Monument to the British Soldiers, the scene of the famous Charge of the Light Brigade. It is a beautiful hillside park and monument where we had a picnic, took lots of pictures, and laid flowers at the base of the monument. It’s a nice tradition. Then we went back to the center of the city where we boarded a boat and took an excursion on the beautiful bay. From there we all went to a nearby restaurant where nearly one hundred people were fed and fed. Lots of toasts and drinking, skits, jokes, speeches and dancing. It is among my treasured memories I’m gathering here in my new life.